HEALTH ISSUES

A RANGE OF HEALTH AND WELFARE ISSUES AFFECTING BREEDERS , CATTERIES AND CAT ENTHUSIASTS

FIP AND THE BIG QUESTION
CHLAMYDIA
ENVIRONMENT ENRICHMENT FOR INDOOR CATS

WHAT IS F.I.P. ?

Feline Infectious Peritonitis is a contagious fatal virus disease caused when a cat has an abnormal immunr reaction to FCov (feline coronavirus). With no reliable  proven vaccine in Great Britain it is one of the most serious viral infections of cats, not only because it is always fatal but because of the difficulties in gaining an accurate diagnosis. It is vital we understand the difference between FCov (feline coronavirus) and FIP (feline infectious peritonitis).  So with this in mind we write this article with the aim of educating and informing breeders and cat lovers to the horrors of this devastating virus and to hopefully clear up any confusions.

Feline Coronavirus ( FCov) is common throughout the world but usually causes no clinical signs other than occasionally a mild diarrohoea. The virus replicates in the intestine and is shed in the faeces. The cat produces antibodies and gradually the number of virus decline, eventually the shedding stops. This does not mean that the cat is immune as it can be reinfected if it comes into contact with the virus in the future.

A variety of factors are thought to influence the likelihood of FIP developing with the very young and the elderly more at risk. The two main factors include stress and the number of cats in a household which is why breeding catteries are more at risk. Stress caused by rehoming kittens is one common scenario. I can't think of anything more devastating than anew owner having to euthanise a kitten only a few weeks after bringing it home or for a breeder to hear that a kitten they recently sold has died of FIP.

FIP manifests in two biotypes,the wet or effucive FIP  and the dry or non effucive FIP.  It is the dry FIP which is the more chronic form of the disease and much harder to diagnose as symptoms are often vague and can represent a major diagnostic challenge. Probably the first sign that anything is wrong is the cat losing weight and going off its food. Other signs could include jaundice(yellowing of the eyes, gums and inner ears). our vet could also spot changes in the eyes especially the retina at the back of the eye.  The cat could also develop neurological signs becoming unsteady and falling over, but  bear in mind that all these signs could also be caused by other treatable conditions. As cats with FIPare usually euthanised you can see what problems there are in obtaining an accurate diagnosis and the importance of achieving this. Chances of diagnosing FIP increase with time and with results from various laboratory tests which are often  an assessment of various rsults which influence the suspicion of FIP. The background of the cat will also be taken into consideration whether it comes from a high risk background, ie breeding and multicat households.

The wet or effucive version is probably the more recognizable form where the cats abdomen swells to a huge size. This is caused by fluid leaking from badly damaged blood vessels.In either version the result is the same, its fatal.

SO HOW CAN WE PREVENT FIP?

If we can prevent FCov infection we will prevent the devastating effects of FIP. As FCov is shed in faeces litter tray hygiene is probably the most important thing we can do. Naturally cats  would deffecate outdoors and bury their faeces, however in domesticating the cat and introducing litter trays we have brought our cats into an increased risk of FCov especially in multicat households. Firstly ensure that you have enough litter trays, ideally it should be one per cat, make sure it declumped as regular as possible and totally cleaned out at least every 2 to 3 days using bleach (sodium hyperchloride) or a regular disinfectant that states coronavirus on it. If the litter is not a clumping type the tray must be totally cleaned daily Wherever possible use covered trays as microscopic faecal particles can be blown around. Daily mopping floors is also essential as is keeping food and water dishes in a seperate room to avoid contamination.
FCov is a relatively unstable virus but can live for several weeks in microscopic faecal particles blown around the house.

Regular testing for FCov in breeding catteries should be recomended and only FCov negative queens should be mated to FCov negative studs.
A positve test for FCov DOES NOT mean that a cat has FIP or will get FIP. Most cats shed the virus and become clear.

No reliable vaccine is available for FIP in Britain although Primucel produced by Pfizer has been available in the states and some parts of Europe for some time now. There has been a lot of controversy regarding the effectiveness and safety of this vaccine and different studies have produced various results and as it can only be used after 16 weeks of age, its usually too late for kittens as infection occurs at a much younger age.

Eradicating FCov from a breeeding cattery can be done but is costly and time consuming. but this  becomes impossible when cat numbers become too high for a domestic household, therefore breeding with high numbers of cats ie 6-8 should be confined to a purpose built set of cattery buildings so that strict levels of hygiene can be adhered to .Sero negative cats should be isolated  and as more cats become negative they too should be added to the negative colony.

Anyone showing cats should also be aware of hygiene surveys have shown that FCov infection in the domestic cat population could be around 25 to 40 %. This figure rises dramatically in breeding catteries and multicat households. So bearing this in mind don't risk picking up FCov, ensure all pens are wiped wth disinfectant before putting in equipment  and your cat. Also ensure that judges clean their hands between cats.

When buying kittens make sure you ALWAYS see the kitten with its mother. If FCov and FIP is present in the breeding colony there is a methodused where queen and kittens can be isolated from the colony and weaned at 6 weeks.Following weaning the queen is removed and kittens are kept isolated and tested at 12-18 weeks of age. This is a method  that can work but it also sometimes fails. So if the kittens are not with their mother ask why and DO NOT BUY,you could be buying an expensive heartache.

There are many reliable sites around that can give excellent detailed reports and information and spending a little time learning and arming yourself with this knowledge could mean the difference between getting FIP and not getting it So to this end if we only breed FCov negative cats to FCov negative cats, practice scrupulous hygiene along with regular FCov testing , could it be possible to virtually erradicate FIP in pedigree cats as we have done with feline aids and leukemia. As responsible breeders we should be asking , is this something we should be aiming for? As a cat owner and breeder  I certainly think so.

CHLAMYDIA

When we think of Chlamydia most of us think of a sexually transmitted disease of humans, but there are many strains of this bacteria.
Chlamydia bacterai can live in respiritory, genital,urinary, and digestive systems of several animals including humans,,felines, goats, sheep, cattle and in Australia, koalas and kangaroos.

The species of Chlamydia that infects cats is Chlamydia Psittaci. This strain typically gives cats swollen red eyes (conjunctivitius) with lots of thick green discharge. In many species including cats it can cause upper respiritory tract infections (RTI)    RTI,s cause nasal congestion and discharge along with runny eyes. They also affect the lungs and cause pneumonia. Chlamydia in cats can be a serious problem in breeding catteries so prevention is better than cure and vaccination is highly recommended in all breeding catteries.

If you have persistant problems with runny eyes, respiratory infections and sneezing then getting your vet to do a Chlamydia culture would be advisable. If the result is positive then the whole cattery needs treating.

TREATMENT

Treatment is via antibiotics prescribed  by your vet . Treatment usually last several weeks and all cats in the same household/cattery  must be treated to prevent pread of the disease. Prevention is better than cure so vaccination is advisable.

Management and prevention.
The two most important measures for preventing RTI s is to make sure your cats have regular vaccinations and to avoid exposure to infected cats. The commonly used triple vaccine that protects the cat from calicavirus and herpesvirus means less likelihood of severe Chlamydia in cats.

Once you have a Chlamydia free cattery then keeping it that way is the next step. All new cats should be vaccinated before being introduced to existing cattery residents. Good cattery managemnet and cleaning will help to prevent most infections and bacteria. Regular cleaning using a good brand disinfectant such as Trigene or bleach is essential. Good health guidelines such as keeping numbers low. In household conditions reduce exposure to irritants such as cigarette smoke. Provide good quality foods and fresh water , avoid stress, and get medical medical conditions treated promptly. These measures are all essential

ENVIRONMENTAL ENRICHMENT FOR THE INDOOR CAT

The number of cats living exclusively indoors in the UK is approximately 10 to 12 % and is increasing. Whilst we may conclude from that figure that the majority of cats are allowed to free roam, the reality of this is very different. Large numbers of cats have their outside space restricted to some extent, examples may include elderly cats who just prefer to stay in, timid cats who just couldnt bear the thought of confrontation with the neighbours tomcat: cats living in highly populated areas with large numbers of neighbourhood toms just waiting to beat fluffy up at the first opportunty is often enough to keep fluffy at home.

Welfare charites and vets advise cats to be kept indoors at night to protect them from fighting which causes abcesses and spreads disease.. In an ideal world our cats would all have unrestricted access to the outdoors but this is not an ideal world and in many cases its just not practical. As a result cats are increasingly kept indoors. Getting into a debate about should we or shouldnt we is not the idea , however we should appreciate that cats kept indoors require more effort in providing a correct environment for them.. This is needed to keep them both mentally and physically fit and healthy. We must compensate for all the lost activites of an outdoor cat  and provide these activites to the indoor cat.

Firstly lets think about what a cat will do outside. Several hours each day will be spent hunting and probably consuming mice, birds and small animals. The cat will scratch trees and posts to sharpen clawa and mark out territory. The cat will relax and sleep in the sun, pounce , chase and explore secret hideouts and nooks and crannies. Now lets compare that with  the shrunken world between four walls. Where are the mice to hunt, the birds to watch, the insects to play with, the trees to scratch and climb, where are the secret hiding places,the nooks and crannies to explore, the tops of fences to sit on and sit and watch the ever changing world go by, the sunny roof to sunbathe on, the private toilet area, and the edges of the territory to mark and guard, and finally the dear old lady friend who will provide that tasty piece of ham.

The reality is that food is provided at set times and eaten in minutes instantly leaving a void of several hours in the day. Water is provided next to the food, claws are sharpened on the sofa after which the cat will be shouted at , the secret hiding place is the wardrobe which is kept firmly shut and out of bounds , the sunny window is also out of bounds so the cat cant knock aunt mauds wedding present off. The cat pounces on and chases a belt or zip and is again told off because it has a designer label on it, and that tasty morsel is firmly locked in the fridge, what is the cat supposed to do? Only sleeping is left  and then weight gain and boredom creep in and to add to that psychological problems and undesirable behaviour creeping in and once again the cat is shouted at. Behaviour problems are caused mainly by or wholly in some cases by inappropriate environment and some examples are:::
innappropriate urination, urine spraying, inappropriate defecation, compulsive disorders,obesity,over grooming, idiopathic cystitis,and aggression towards other cats or humans.

All these problems can be avoided by just taking the trouble to make a few adjustments to suit your cats needs. With cat ownership on the the increase and more and more cats kept indoors or with restricted access outdoors it is our duty to provide our cats with enough stimulation and environment enrichment to keep him fit and healthy.

SO WHAT IS ENVIRONMENT ENRICHMENT?

Environment enrichment is a popular phrase used amongst zoos and wildlife parks. It embraces the natural behaviour and makes  provision that stimulates and challenges the animal. It allows the animal to perform its natural behaviour in an artificial environment.

Your cat will need good food, water, fresh air, a source of grass, a toilet area, secret hiding places, high resting places, sleeping places, scratching places, scent stimulation and predatory play. You dont have to spend a fortune, with a little thought most could be made from or created from whatever is lying around the house. So lets work our way through the above list.

Good quality food is a must, a good proportion of the daily food allowance can be placed into treat balls or egg boxes and hidden around the house to encourage foraging. I'm not suggesting you place wet food around the house, dried food can be used instead. Water should be placed seperately from food, how often would your cat find water conveniently next to the mouse he just spent an hour stalking in the wild??  Running water is preferred to still water, so a pet fountain would be preferable if affordable.
You could try making different structures from cardboard boxes or toilet roll tubes to hide food in to keep your cats interests also.
Fresh air is vital for good health , open doors and windows can be protected with a mesh screen, These can be easily purchased ready made or in kit form these days or you could always make your own with a little wood and fly screen mesh. Grass is also important to indoor cats as it acts as a natural emetic to rid the cat of furballs. Kitty grass is easily purchased, plant a little in a stone pot and remember to keep planting another one when one is put out . Herbs such as catnip can also be grown to use as scent stimulation. Animals seek out natural plants in the wild to cure themselves of any ills, but when planting plants for your cat heed caution, the Feline Advisory Bureau can provide a list of plants that are poisonous to cats.

How many of us have heard of Buster Lloyd Jones, a famous vet who as a child contracted Polio and whilst recovering he realized by watching wild animals in his garden that they were seeking out natural plants to cure themselves. He later went on to create Denes Herbal Remedies for cats and dogs. His book The Animals Came in One by One is a wonderful read if you can track down a copy.

Litter trays, the ideal number is one per each cat placed where privacy can be had, they should be placed in as many different places as  possible but not next to doors, windows and corridors where the neighbourhood tom can intimidate. Litter trays placed in the wrong place or too few is one of the main causes of inappropriate urination when in multicat households one cat bullies another. With all the will in the world the bully cannot guard all the trays at once if they are in different  places.

Scratch posts and aerobic centres simulate trees and provide high resting places, there are many on the market ranging from a few pounds to many hundred pounds, but with a bit of imagination you could make one if you didnt want to spend loads of money.

Secret hiding places can be in boxes under beds, behind sofas in a cupboard or just about anywhere but remember never disturb the cat when in them , all cats need time out from owners.

Scent stimulation can be in the form of catnip or valerian. Dried forms are readily available, you could even try growing your own in pots. Finally toys that can be chased and pounced on to encourage predatory play, there is a wide variety of dangler toys on sticks out there on the market, or you could make your own by attaching string with feather or ribbons to the end of a cane or similar. These toys are ideal as the cat can chase, pounce, bite and scratch till his heart is content and your fingers are well out of the way. The social interaction that you give whilst playing like this is also very important.

Most of all keep providing new ideas to keep your cats interest, by following these few simple rules your cat will live a happy healthy fulfilled life instead of a bored life riddled with illness and unhappiness.